Posted by Klaus on June 30, 2002 at 04:48:42:
In Reply to: Re: Re: Re: Re: First Valve Sticking posted by B on June 29, 2002 at 20:42:45:
All Cass or possibly better Blue Juice as the thin component.
Rotor spindle oil, sewing machine oil, or BiNak as the thicker component.
Right now I do not have a "mixed" bottle, so I oil after this recipe: if the valves are sluggish, then thin oil only. If they tend to stick: thin oil in normal application, plus a few drops of thick oil.
Basically I oil with whatever I have at hand. And in the amount and in the mix, that my fingers tell me, that the valves need in the actual situation.
This might sound arrogant, but the experiences of decades can not always be condensed in a short posting. You should experiment. I think, I have given you some fair outlines for doing that.
One thing I have done to evaluate the effectivity of my oiling is this: If the valve does not work as you like it, then take out the piston. Look at it from all angles in good light.
If there are dry parts of the surface, the oil is too thin with too little binding to the piston.
If the surface looks "soapy", then the oil is too thick.
If there is dirt on surface, then all of the instrument needs a good cleaning.
One problem caused by the leadpipe/receiver rubbing against the inner surface of case or gig-bag is, that there can end up some fabric fibres (fluff) on the piston surfaces. They will make any valve action unreliable. My remedy has been to cover the leadpipe/receiver with a tightly woven cloth.