Re: Re: Re: Playing again after 20 years (CBB681-4)


[ Follow Ups ] [ Post Followup ] [ TubeNet BBS ] [ FAQ ]

Posted by Rick Denney on August 26, 2003 at 11:39:17:

In Reply to: Re: Re: Playing again after 20 years (CBB681-4) posted by Paul on August 25, 2003 at 19:40:40:

As Mark says, Cerveny works with thin brass and anneals it more than most so that it is relatively weak. Thus, it doesn't resist dents as well as some other tubas. But if you keep it in a case, or if you use a gig bag, treat it as if it is fragile and in no case at all, and you'll be fine. Don't stand it on its bell.

The original S linkages on mine had been replaced by the importer, and they used cheap ball joints intended for lighter applications. I replaced them with heavier stuff and that got rid of the mushy feeling resulting from the lightweight stuff. But this is just the linkages I'm talking about, not the rotors themselves.

To oil those suckers, squirt a goodly amount of valve oil into the leadpipe and run it around the valves by spinning the horn. You should only have to do this occasionally--for my well-broken-in rotary tubas, I don't ever have to do it any more. Then, use a lightweight machine oil (which is still a lot heavier than valve oil) on the bearings. The front bearing is right under the stop arm, where the linkage attaches to the rotor. The rear bearing is underneath the rear rotor cap, which unscrews. I do this once a week, or after a layoff on the instrument. I like oil that comes in a bottle with a metal needle tip, so that you can put a little oil right where it's needed.

I don't know if they still do this, but Cerveny used hollow rotors on my instrument, and they were very light and fast. Of course, that speed was entirely wasted on me.

Rick "who can't think fast enough to need fast valves" Denney


Follow Ups: